Climbing Aguja Poincenot via Judgement Day

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After getting back to Polacos from Saint Exupery, I informed Chris and Billy that the rock fall danger on the approach to Poincenot wasn’t as bad as expected and we were good to go. We racked up in a rush, utilizing the last light, and went to bed with alarms set for 3:40am. We woke and raged our way up the heinous approach gully in under two hours, arriving at the base of the route earlier than expected. We had to wait till first light to attempt to find the start of the route but that didn’t really matter because we started up the wrong way anyway. We eventually merged onto the correct cracks after a few pitches with Chris in the lead. Chris brought us up to the base of the headwall after climbing though many pitches of wet and icy crack. I started out attempting to follow everything free but shorty gave up since the rock was often coated in verglas.